New Zealand – South Island – Part 2

I am soooo late with this post. Sorry, but promise I still remember the most important things. 

After visiting Banks peninsula, I made 2 loops on the South Island. I was heading to the west coast through Arthur pass. The scenery is amazing and they say it’s easier going from the east to the west, than doing it to the other way.  From the west the road is steeper so make sure your car can handle it. I made a mistake on the way, that I didn’t stop at Castle Hill – I would suggest put down on your list, after checking some pictures, it worth a visit.

I stopped at Arthur pass and visited 2 waterfalls, including Devil’s punch-bowl. They say if you spent the night there you will hear the Kiwi birds running around and calling each other. I didn’t want to stay overnight, so I was heading to Greymouth. There is a viaduct lookout on the way, where I finally saw some Kea birds flying around. They say, you need to be careful with them as they steal everything, even the black rubber part from your car window.

Again, there was a place, Hokitika, I really wanted to visit and did not realized I was next to it. Yeah, having no plans and following your heart is good, but you need some plans to make sure you will see everything you would like to. But no worries, I am going back to the south in December and make sure I will visit Hokitika. Hopefully the weather will let me to do this, because at the moment there was a lot of rain and all the rivers are flooding in the south island.

The campsite I stayed in Greymouth was not really in the nature, well it was at the back of a petrol station middle of town. Can’t complain, it was cheap. After a couple of days camping I realized, the best place is where you have unlimited hot water for $15/night, as most of the campsite had only limited time (3-6 mins shower or you need to pay $2 for 3-4 mins shower). Yes, you need to appreciate the smallest things in life and vanlife absolutely help to do this.

I missed sleeping in Sullivan so I was happy to get back to the camper life, however it’s much better in the nature than at the back of the petrol station. 

Greymouth is very famous of the jade, there is a big jade fountain middle in the town. Also there was a town festival when I was there, the local band was playing and there was food stores and small market around. It really had a good vibe all around.

From Greymouth I was heading to Westport on the west coast. First stop was at the Pancake rocks. The name tells everything. The rocks looks like layered pancakes and in the restaurant close by you can buy sweet and savory pancakes.

On the way back to the east coast, I stopped in a small town, called Moana. I think, no need to explain why: What can I say?! You’re welcome! 🙂 It has a really beautiful and peaceful lake, so I spent 30-40 minutes there and headed to Hanmer Springs. I totally forgot that it was school holiday as I arrived there at Easter. Well, it was not quiet at all and I decided not going to the hot pools.

I had a small hike in the morning to the top of the Domain. I didn’t stayed another night as I was getting excited about the Visa application day. I am not sure if I mentioned, but for Hungarians they only open the application on one day, which is the 26th April and only give out 100 visas, which means it fill up in 4 minutes. Crazy, I know! So yes, I was getting really excited, as there was no plan B. I had to get in that 100!

As you can see, I got in! I carried out a heart attack as the system told me I can only apply for one visa. I did some practice with other countries application and I forgot to delete  the last one. Really, if I have anything on me which can measure my heartbeat, it would blow up.

I filled out the form in 4 minutes and it let me pay, which meant I was in! That point I started to cry because of happiness. I was so relieved. It was half official, that I could stay in New Zealand for a year. I had to wait 2 more weeks for the actual approval, so I decided I am going to see the rest of the South Island.

I planned a way bigger loop this time. I headed to Mt Hutt first. There is a deep blue colored river – well maybe all rivers here are that insane blue colored- so I wanted to go for a walk, but I didn’t know it rained the night before in the mountain. The river turned brown in a half day. The walk is really nice and at the and there is a mine. I did not finished my walk as the trail was muddy and slippery and I was alone so did not want to risk my safety. 🙂

I spent the first night in Methven, which is a tiny town in the middle of the south island. I started this trip quite late season so I didn’t need to worry about full house in any camping site. 

From Mt Hutt I was continue my way to Tekapo on the stargazing road. There is no town or big cities there, so you have the clearest sky. I am not joking when I say, New Zealand has way more stars on the sky than any other countries. No air pollution and no O-Zone – I guess this is a reason too.

Everybody prepared me for the tourist all around the south island. Tekapo was the first town, where I saw bunch of tourist. It was full with Chinese people and literally impossible to take a picture without anybody on it. 

First day was rainy and the night was a bit cloudy, so I couldn’t really enjoy the stars on the sky. I decided I will spend one more night in Tekapo. At least I had a relaxed day, reading my book and watch TV. 😀 Next day when I woke up the sky was clear and all the mountains covered with snow. The scenery changed so much during the night. Luckily, next night the sky was sooo clear, but that meant it was freezing cold as well. I took a lot of pictures with my phone (I tested it earlier in Berlins if I am able to take any good  night pictures so I was ready). As you can see, I had success and pretty proud of my phone.

During the night it was -4°C. This was the first night when it was under 0°C and I have to say, I didn’t mind it was only one night. Sullivan was frozen inside outside. This was the first morning, when I really struggled getting out of the car and my bed.

The way from Tekapo is not that exciting… Then, all of sudden after a turn you have the most incredible view. Lake Pukaki and Mt Cook in the background appear from nowhere. I had to stop as soon as possible, it was sooo beautiful and I didn’t want to crash my car. The lake is insane blue (like all of the lakes and streams here – still… I don’t know how).

The road is heading to Mt Cook all along the lake. I think that is one of my favourite road in New Zealand. Of course, I stopped at least 4 times to take some pictures.

Unfortunately the track I wanted to visit was closed due to flood – and the bridge was demolished in the flood. Well, okay, that is a good reason to close the trail. Hopefully, when I am back in December, it will be open again. There is another short trail on the other side, which is worth a walk as you can see the glacier on the top of the mountain and Mt Cook in front.

After a couple of hours, I decided do leave to Wanaka. I wanted to do the Isthmus peak, so I was looking for a hiking buddy on Facebook. Luckily I found somebody who was around and was keen to come. I do not recommend to do any hike in the summer, as even at the end of autumn it was really hot. Make sure, you prepare a lot a of water and food. This hike is 16 km out and back and it takes around 6-7 hours. So I think you understand now, why I needed a hiking buddy and company.

There is another famous trail in Wanaka, called Roys Peak, but I decided to do the Isthmus peak as at the end you are between the 2 lakes and the trail is not that busy – people can’t see me dying halfway. 😀 I’d say one of them is a must if you are in New Zealand.

I stayed in Wanaka 2 days as one day was only the hike. I was not believing my eyes, the fuel was the most expensive in whole New Zealand in Wakana. It was over $2.50 – I told Sullivan he need to be on a diet for a bit as for sure I am not gonna pay this much. 

The most famous land sight is a tree in the lake. Well I am not really sure, why is it that famous, since that, I saw a lot of trees in the water, especially in Whangarei. Anyway, I visited this famous tree. The lake and the mountains behind is really nice, especially at sunset, so it worth a visit.

If you are in Wanaka, there is a short drive to Blue Pools. I went there next day with one of my hiking buddy from Isthmus peak. Again, it is that crazy blue colors, which I’ve never seen anywhere else, just in New Zealand. But, be prepared, there are a lot of sandflies. They even put a sign for them up with picture. If you forgot how they look like…

I might mentioned sandflies before, but all you need to know, they are much worse than mosquitoes – as they don’t make any noise and their bites are more painful.

From Wanaka I was heading to Milford Sound, but I will tell all about that adventure and my way back to Christchurch on the east coast in the next post. I know, if I keep continue writing, nobody will read it. So to be continued…